We began our journey from Udupi, the coastal town famed for its Krishna temple and cuisine, heading inland toward Dharmasthala. The road curled through lush hills, carrying us not just across landscapes but into rituals older than memory. At Dharmasthala, we offered her hair — a teary, sacred moment, heavy with tradition.
With no prior bookings, fortune favored us: two cancelled rooms at Adithya View became our refuge. A modest stay, but with a children’s play area that turned into a kingdom for my little one. At just over a year old, she discovered the thrill of climbing stairs with hands and knees, sliding down with laughter that echoed louder than temple bells.
From there, the road beckoned us deeper into Kodagu (Coorg). A land we had visited countless times in our youth — the Scotland of India, wrapped in mist and coffee. But this time, we sought paths less taken. Instead of the familiar Talakaveri, Omkareshwar Temple, Raja’s Seat Garden, and Madikeri Fort, we turned toward newer wonders like the Chiklihole Reservoir, a serene expanse of water framed by forests.
Abby Falls
Our first stop was Abby Falls, hidden within coffee plantations. With her strapped to me, we descended the stone steps like a kangaroo with its cub. At the base, I unstrapped her, and together we faced the roaring cascade. She clapped, wide-eyed, and whispered her first “woooow.” The rocks beneath the falls looked carved into miniature staircases by centuries of water’s relentless force. The flow was moderate, but her wonder made it monumental.
Dubare Elephant Camp
Next came Dubare Elephant Camp, a place where river and forest conspire to create magic. At high tide, boats ferry visitors across; at low tide, you must cross by foot, stone by stone. With her strapped to me, I made the bold move — faith and courage guiding each step. She trusted me, and together we reached the camp.
There, she met giants. Elephants lumbered to the river for their bath, their trunks curling like ancient scripts. She touched one, whispering “Aane” (elephant), her tiny voice bridging centuries of reverence. Later, she dipped her feet into the shallow water, roots of a tree forming a natural pool just for her. And then — a horse ride. Her laughter rang out as the horse galloped along the riverbank. In that moment, I felt like a queen, riding with my little princess.
Namdroling Monastery (Golden Temple)
In Bylakuppe, the Namdroling Monastery Golden Temple rose like a jewel of Tibetan Buddhism. Its golden spires gleamed against the sky, its courtyards alive with prayer flags. She stood before the great gong, mesmerized, and tugged at the vibrant door hangings — red, yellow, white, blue, green — symbols of balance and harmony.
Inside, monks chanted mantras that seemed to pierce the soul. My daughter’s hands danced to their rhythm, as if the chants were sung for her alone. I tried to meditate, but she pried open my eyelids, whispering “mamma.” Patience became my lesson, and in that interruption, I found a deeper awakening.
Cauvery Nisargadhama
We wandered next into Cauvery Nisargadhama, a forest island formed by the river. Bamboo groves whispered in the breeze, sculptures depicted Karnataka’s tribal heritage, and wooden treehouses invited exploration. She kicked dried bamboo leaves, delighting in their rustle beneath her feet. For her, the forest was not history or ecology — it was sound, texture, and play.
Mercara Gold Estate
On our final day, we toured Mercara Gold Estate, a coffee and spice plantation. Guides explained the varieties of Arabica and Robusta, the drying and roasting of beans, the intercropping of pepper vines. My little one cared nothing for the encyclopedia of agriculture; she reveled in the walk, the scents, the freedom of open fields. Lunch was a traditional nati (village) meal — earthy, spicy, and unforgettable. Even she enjoyed the flavors, proof that Coorg’s cuisine speaks to all ages.
Subramanya
Our journey ended at Kukke Subramanya, where Lord Subramanya is worshipped as the protector of serpents. Pilgrims thronged the temple, offering prayers to ward off ancestral curses. We bowed before the deity, carrying gratitude and memories.
And then, the road carried us home — not just with photographs, but with a truckload of memories etched in tiny footsteps, laughter, and the quiet strength of family.
Notes on the Classic Coorg Spots
- Talakaveri: The sacred source of the River Cauvery, high in the Brahmagiri Hills.
- Omkareshwar Temple: built by King Lingarajendra II in 1820, houses a sacred Shiva linga brought from Kashi and is fronted by a large fish‑filled tank that adds to its spiritual aura.
- Raja’s Seat Garden: A viewpoint once favored by Coorg’s kings, offering sunsets over valleys.
- Madikeri Fort: A 17th‑century fort built by Mudduraja, later renovated by Tipu Sultan and the British.
- Chiklihole Reservoir: The streams pour into its curved basin so smoothly that it feels like water flowing into a giant natural vessel cradled by the forest.
